tail light fuse melting gremlin, 93 camry

Hi all, another weird electrical problem....



I repaired the wires to the trunk lid on my 93 camry a few years ago, they were all frayed and shorting and generally screwed up, spliced in bits of new wire, soldered 'em up and used two layers of shrink wrap for measure.



Last week the dash and tail lights went out, fuse #10 in the dash panel was all melted in place, yuk.



Obviously, I thought, my wire repair has failed, pulled the layers of tape and loom off, it all looks perfect. crap



Next I looked at all the exterior lamps on that circuit, pulled 'em out and admired the bases, all looks good.



Then I scraped out all the melted crud and put in another fuse, everything works again. Put an ammeter in place of the fuse, there's a 5 amp draw, seems about right to me. The melted fuse was of the correct rating.



The lamp failure box in the trunk looks ok, took it apart and admired the circuit board, no obvious flaws.



Despite the melted-ness the fuse clips look sort of ok. Probably best to do a bit of rewire and relocate that fuse to a fuse holder.



I'm tempted to replace the lamp failure box for the hell of it.



So, I'm stumped, the stupid thing overheated and melted for a reason.



Any ideas? Anyone?



thanks, Jay

Reply 1 : tail light fuse melting gremlin, 93 camry

Pretty sure there was a recall for that. Check edmunds.com

Reply 2 : tail light fuse melting gremlin, 93 camry

Sounds like a short to me. Somethings gotta be grounding out.

Anyone interested in a 2011 manual SE?

Our dealership just allocated a 2545 in Silver.



Meaning, a 6 speed manual Camry SE. It's being built the first week of January and should arrive on our lot in Madison, WI, the middle to end of January.



If you're interested....this is your chance! The Gen 7 Camry is coming out soon and they may not be making a manual transmission version anymore.



Just thought I'd throw that out there

Reply 1 : Anyone interested in a 2011 manual SE?

I mean... i'd test drive it.

Reply 2 : Anyone interested in a 2011 manual SE?

Quote:

Originally Posted by arabianobsession Our dealership just allocated a 2545 in Silver. Meaning, a 6 speed manual Camry SE. It's being built the first week of January and should arrive on our lot in Madison, WI, the middle to end of January. If you're interested....this is your chance! The Gen 7 Camry is coming out soon and they may not be making a manual transmission version anymore. Just thought I'd throw that out there

Why can't u be here in cali? I don't wanna have to drive all the way there to buy a car.

Quote:

Originally Posted by LynchburgCSI I mean... i'd test drive it.

You touch it, you buy it.

Reply 3 : Anyone interested in a 2011 manual SE?

Here in Canada, 2010 was the last year for the manual SE.

Reply 4 : Anyone interested in a 2011 manual SE?

how come they don't offer a manual with the bigger motor anymore?

Reply 5 : Anyone interested in a 2011 manual SE?

^ because it's hard for ppl to drive manual when they r too busy holding cell phone, texting, coffee, burger, putting on makeup, etc. You can't drive manual with your knee like you could with automatic.



Is it a V6? I just have to ask.

Reply 6 : Anyone interested in a 2011 manual SE?

It would appear Toyota never made a fwd manual transmission for the GR engine. It's a massive shame as a manual 3.5L V6 would have been a kick-arse thing.



Obviously the days are numbered for the manual four too. (Btw is that 2011 the 2.4 or 2.5?)

Reply 7 : Anyone interested in a 2011 manual SE?

Quote:

Originally Posted by workerant Is it a V6? I just have to ask.

Nope. It's a 4 banger. The V6 NEVER comes with a manual. An SE 4cyl is only automatic about 99% of the time. Manual SE's are VERY rare.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Asteroid It would appear Toyota never made a fwd manual transmission for the GR engine. It's a massive shame as a manual 3.5L V6 would have been a kick-arse thing. Obviously the days are numbered for the manual four too. (Btw is that 2011 the 2.4 or 2.5?)

Yep. The 2GR-FE is auto-only. For the 4 cylinders... 07-09 = 2.4L (2AZ-FE?), 10+ = 2.5L (2AR-FE?).

Reply 8 : Anyone interested in a 2011 manual SE?

I love my manual SE.

Reply 9 : Anyone interested in a 2011 manual SE?

Quote:

Originally Posted by LynchburgCSI Nope. It's a 4 banger. The V6 NEVER comes with a manual. An SE 4cyl is only automatic about 99% of the time. Manual SE's are VERY rare. Yep. The 2GR-FE is auto-only. For the 4 cylinders... 07-09 = 2.4L (2AZ-FE?), 10+ = 2.5L (2AR-FE?).

You're 100% correct, Ken!



Just so y'all know....I happen to own a 2011 manual SE. Sure it's a 4 cyl. but it's VERY fun to drive and pretty zippy!

Reply 10 : Anyone interested in a 2011 manual SE?

i would have been interested if it was either in black or white haha

Reply 11 : Anyone interested in a 2011 manual SE?

Quote:

Originally Posted by LynchburgCSI The V6 NEVER comes with a manual. The 2GR-FE is auto-only.

except in the Lotus Evora okay, we're talking about camry's.....

Reply 12 : Anyone interested in a 2011 manual SE?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Camread except in the Lotus Evora okay, we're talking about camry's.....

I swear... if some got their hands on that tranny...

Reply 13 : Anyone interested in a 2011 manual SE?

i wish they make a V6 manuel, i had a I4 SE but like my V6 better

Reply 14 : Anyone interested in a 2011 manual SE?

Quote:

Originally Posted by wreyes1989 i wish they make a V6 manuel, i had a I4 SE but like my V6 better

awesome avatar

In Dash DVD

Im Selling a Pioneer AVH P4100-dvd with the toyota harness, the Parking brake bypass is already installed and if you want it ill throw in the scosche faceplate for 10th gen Corollas (09+) with the black interior.



I am also thwoing in the $60 Ipod cable which brings up ipod controls on the screen and allows you to play videos and music off of your ipod.



Asking somewhere between 350-400 for all of it.



PM me if interested.



Thanks



FF29

Hid high beam helpppppp !!!! Pleaseeeeeeeee

hello guys im new here and i need some help i hope someone can help me with this issue so here goes my problem.

i have a corolla 2011 i bought hids for the low beams and they work great however when i install the new ballast to the high beams with the bulbs 9005 they wont work at all and this is driving me crazy i have 4 bulbs of 9005 which are the high beams i tried testing them in the low beam ballast and none of them wont work either please help i hope i explained myself well

thank you and i hope i can get some answers

Reply 1 : Hid high beam helpppppp !!!! Pleaseeeeeeeee

were those the bulbs that came with your hid kit?? If not maybe the're just not compatible

and

Reply 2 : Hid high beam helpppppp !!!! Pleaseeeeeeeee

they should all be compatible unless maybe you have 55w bulbs in 35w ballasts.



im not sure you can use hids in your high beams unless you disabled your drls.

cause the low voltage definitely wont work with the ballasts.

lets see what some of the other guys say

Reply 3 : Hid high beam helpppppp !!!! Pleaseeeeeeeee

thank you guys for the answer yes this bulbs came with the kit

the kit is 35w but i dont think the drl is the problem i know i have to disable them but when i test the 4 bulbs (9005) in the low beam where the low beams (9006) are install they wont work either this is very weird it make a weird noise but it dosent work

im frustratedddddddddddd

Reply 4 : Hid high beam helpppppp !!!! Pleaseeeeeeeee

try disabling the DRL / AUTO lights...



Your highs are also your DRLs.

Reply 5 : Hid high beam helpppppp !!!! Pleaseeeeeeeee

Quote:

Originally Posted by sinnaever try disabling the DRL / AUTO lights... Your highs are also your DRLs.

but dont you think the bulbs 9005 high beam should work when i connect them to the low beam ballast ? or im i wrong on this

i think they should work i know i have to disable the drl but i know for sure there is something else to this problem

thank you for your answer hope someone can give me another advice

Reply 6 : Hid high beam helpppppp !!!! Pleaseeeeeeeee

Even if/when you are able to make it work...its not a good idea.

- Its dangerous to oncoming drivers (high beams have no cutoff, glare everywhere) and

- The on/off cycles when you do dim in time, and the long strike time (10secs to come to full power at 55mph is a long time) will kill the bulbs in short order...

Squeaky driver seat

Anyone ever try to get to the foam/seat area under the upholstery? My seat has developed a serious squeak sounds like and old squeaky bed

Reply 1 : Squeaky driver seat

My driver's seat squeaks slightly when I over a speed bump. Reminds me of an old bus . I actually have a spare seat in the garage which has the rail removed (the spare one I bought for my electric seat conversion) so I might take the fabric and cushion off to see what would cause the squeak. I'll post pics if I find anything useful

Reply 2 : Squeaky driver seat

Cool, yeah I might try to see if the seats from my wife's 98 corolla fit my 94..if they do, I may go to a junkyard and find a pair.

Reply 3 : Squeaky driver seat

^Direct bolt on. I've got the 01 S seats.

Reply 4 : Squeaky driver seat

I had some time on my hands so I decided to pull my spare seat apart and I think I may have figured out what would cause the squeaking



Underneath the seat there are 3 springs. Two of them have nylon spacers/clips around them to prevent metal-on-metal contact which would cause squeaking, however the third spring is held in by a metal clip on each side that holds it tightly against the metal frame of the seat base. My guess is that the top clips become loose over the years which causes the spring to rub against the metal, which then scrapes the paint off the spring and causes the annoying squeak. That's the only thing I could see which could potentially cause the squeak (my spare seat doesn't squeak so I couldn't replicate the exact problem).



To fix the problem, you could put a packer around the end of the spring to stop the metal-on-metal contact, or press the tab so it closes tighter (if it's loose in the first place). If you go for the packer idea then you could use a thin tubular piece of plastic (such as what you get on the end of an electrical plug when you buy a new TV etc), or just try wrapping it in electrical tape. I can't guarantee that either of these methods will fix the problem, but I can't see any other parts that would cause the squeaking.



In order to get to the frame off the seat base, you'll have to un-clip the fabric. There are 5 metal clips holding it against the frame at the front which easily pry back with a small flat-head screwdriver. There are also a number of circular clips (a bit like a miniature keyring) on the back-end of the seat base. You'll have to either pry these out (they're quite flexible) or unhook them like you would with a keyring. After that the frame will come off the bottom (there's no need to remove the fabric from the cushion, which I found out is actually glued in place).



Here's some photos I took:

Smog

I have a 94 four runner v6 that i just had to get smogged it passed but my hydro carbons at idle and running rpms are high and almost the same. Any idea what could be causing the high hydrocarbons?

Reply 1 : Smog

Rebootej,



The important thing to remember here is that it passed smog. Hydrocarbons are a result of incomplete combustion. You can run lower octaine gas that will burn faster and cleaner. You can change your air filter and put new spark plugs in, if it is a real concern. Hope this helps.

The thing that won't cost any extra money is the fuel.

1991 3.0 time for a valve job?

I have a rough idle and bad gas mileage on a 5 speed 3.0. I have checked for vacuum leaks cleaned air filter, PVC valve good. I am not getting any check engine light. I am suspecting a valve issue??? I recently purchased this unit for quite cheap. The previous owner had a compression check and he had lower #6 compression. It had 329,000 kms on it. It does not smoke or steam, overheat and drives better at higher rpm. Oil is good color and antifreeze stays full. Am I in for a head job or can it be something simple? Any help would be greatly appreciated. I have also tried adjusting timing and idle. Intake manifold appears to fine and no vacuum leaks. I reset computer and rough idle still there. Intake from air cleaner to fuel injection good. It has a new timing belt job by Toyota very recently.

Reply 1 : 1991 3.0 time for a valve job?

bigrod00,



With that many miles it might be time to clean the throttle body. It might also be a sticking EGR valve.

Reply 2 : 1991 3.0 time for a valve job?

Quote:

Originally Posted by jetwhine bigrod00, With that many miles it might be time to clean the throttle body. It might also be a sticking EGR valve.

What would you suggest cleaning it with? Romove intake and spray down with cleaner or can I do it on truck?

Reply 3 : 1991 3.0 time for a valve job?

bigrod00,



I would take it off to clean it. You can do a much better job if it is off. Also while you have it off you should check the TPS throttle position sensor idle setting. It is done with a feeler gauge. I would use Isopropel alchahol it works great and leaves no residue and is cheap to purchase.

Reply 4 : 1991 3.0 time for a valve job?

How low was the compression in #6?

The reason I ask is because #6 is the cylinder where the head gasket usually fails if it is going to, on a 3VZE engine.

The exhaust from the odd cylinder side of the motor crosses over the bell housing through a pipe, and meets the exhaust from the even side of the motor right in the area of #6.

The driver side rear cylinder (#6) has the heat from all 6 cylinders concentrated in that corner of the motor.

You might want to investigate that possibility.



Art.

Reply 5 : 1991 3.0 time for a valve job?

Quote:

Originally Posted by ZARTT How low was the compression in #6? The reason I ask is because #6 is the cylinder where the head gasket usually fails if it is going to, on a 3VZE engine. The exhaust from the odd cylinder side of the motor crosses over the bell housing through a pipe, and meets the exhaust from the even side of the motor right in the area of #6. The driver side rear cylinder (#6) has the heat from all 6 cylinders concentrated in that corner of the motor. You might want to investigate that possibility. Art.

#6 valves not sealing. I will be replacing heads on weekend when gasket set arrives.