95 Drive shaft U-Joints

I have a 95 Pickup, 4WD extended cab with V6 and manual transmission.



I'm right at 200,000 miles and the front drive shaft U joint is worn out. It appears that I will have to replace the front half of the drive shaft along with it. Is there anything special I need to know before doing this? Are there any other parts that I should consider replacing while I'm under there?



It looks like a pretty straight forward task, but I am not that well versed in Toyota maintenance.



Thanks in advance.

Reply 1 : 95 Drive shaft U-Joints

I would look for a good used unit. I don't think you can just replace one half of a slip yoke assembly..

Reply 2 : 95 Drive shaft U-Joints

are you talking about the slip yolk part? front / rear use the same slip joint (at least, my 93 4 cyl 4x4 does) you shouldn't have to replace that, even if your ujoint is super toast.. I'd bring in the slip yolk with you to a truck shop and ask them if it's all fucked or just the ujoint and go from there.

Reply 3 : 95 Drive shaft U-Joints

To clarify, it is the front U joint on the front half of the rear drive shaft. Both halves of the U joint are toast, and it looks like the rear half of the U joint is welded into the shaft. Am I looking at it wrong?

Reply 4 : 95 Drive shaft U-Joints

When you say both halves of your u-joint are toast, are you referring to the u-shaped yokes? Are they cracked or something?



When replacing a u-joint you are just replacing the x-shaped assembly that fits inside the two yokes (http://www.mrdriveshaft.com/SPR%201330%20BC%20SLD.JPG). You shouldn't need to replace the entire front half of your driveshaft unless the steel yokes are cracked up. Just get a new u-joint from NAPA or wherever and get a vice and some sockets to press out the old joint, or a shop press if you have it. If no shop press, get ready to mash your hands to smithereens with your BFH. Or just take it to a shop and get them to press the old joint out, and the new one in.

Reply 5 : 95 Drive shaft U-Joints

Sorry, I wasn't using the correct terms. I am an aircraft mechanic (turbine engines are my specialty) and aircraft don't have U-joints.



Yes, the X shaped part is worn out. It also appears that the holes in the yokes are worn out and have become slightly elliptical. Both yokes have marks where there is enough slop that they are rubbing each other when accelerating and decelerating. I can hear the parts clanking against each other under acceleration and deceleration.

Reply 6 : 95 Drive shaft U-Joints

haha, guess the toyota is a little low-tech than what you're used to.



If the yokes are really FUBAR, your best (cheapest) option is probably just getting a used unit from a junkyard, whether its the full shaft or just the forward section to the center bearing.



If you haven't already done so, I would still press the old u-joint out and make sure the ID of the holes in the yoke are actually out of round. If the u-joint caps are still pressed in firm to the yoke its likely salvageable. I've only ever seen sloppy u-joints due to movement within the bearing cap/bad bearings, never due to movement of the cap within the press in fitting to the yoke.



I'm trying to figure out how the yokes are coming into contact (rubbing against each other) while driving, that really couldn't happen unless your u-joint is made of silly putty. Do you have pictures, just to ensure we're talking about the same parts? The clanking may just be due to the u-joint freeplay (or some other undiagnosed issue), its surprising how little slop you need to make a big racket.

Reply 7 : 95 Drive shaft U-Joints

Lurking again...........



Only thing I have ever seen, causing yoke-to-yoke contact, is u-joints with the caps missing. happens when the retaining rings are left off .



As mentioned, I would pull/press the joints out and measure/micr the yoke openings/holes.

Reply 8 : 95 Drive shaft U-Joints

The caps are still in place, but I assure you the yokes are rubbing each other. I can move the rear yoke/shaft over an inch radially and rotate about 20 degrees axially.



I am at work right now, but I will take some pictures of it tomorrow morning when the rain stops.

Reply 9 : 95 Drive shaft U-Joints

I can't believe the driveshaft hasn't self destructed yet! Now i'm very, very curious to see the pictures.

Reply 10 : 95 Drive shaft U-Joints

The X shaped thing is the cross. It would have to be pretty trashed to let the yokes (the U in the u-joint) to rub, but it could happen if the needle bearings had disintegrated in all 4 caps.

Even then it doesn't mean the yoke is shot.

Post some pics.

Reply 11 : 95 Drive shaft U-Joints

I took some pictures for you guys. These pictures are taken while I was laying on the ground and using my foot to push the truck back and forth a couple of inches.



Oddly enough, when I am driving it there is no vibration. Only a clanking noise when I get on the gas or let off, such as when I change gears.



Some pictures do not show the rubbing very well because of the low resolution pictures I suppose. But the rubbed areas on the yokes are plain to see to the naked eye in regular light.

Reply 12 : 95 Drive shaft U-Joints

your yokes appear fine, its the bearing caps that are all shot to Heck. just replace the U-joints, and you should be fine.



0) Remove drive shaft from truck



1) remove the retaining clips (inner side of yoke, on the caps)



2) use a press to push on a cap, inward, pushing the opposing cap out,



3) remove exposed cap



4) press joint in opposite direction to remove other cap



5) repeat for the perpendicular side



6) installation of new joint is opposite of removal, BUT



!!!MAKE SURE none of the needles in the cap fall over,

!!!MAKE SURE the caps are centered and snug, when all are installed,

!!!MAKE SURE you install the new retaining clips that come with the replacement U-Joint.





A free standing Press makes this job so easy, or a bench vise as a cheap alternate.





((And this, ladies and boys, is how you help us help you..... Pics or it did not happen))

Reply 13 : 95 Drive shaft U-Joints

I stand corrected, that's pretty nasty. x2 on posting photos.



When you get the driveshaft out, I would suggest taking a quick look at the rear transfer case seal and also see if transfer/transmission breather valves are clogged with grit (located on the top of the transmission under rubber shifter boot - only takes a minute to get it apart), looks like there's a little bit of oil getting forced out the back end of the t-case somewhere.

Reply 14 : 95 Drive shaft U-Joints

Thanks for the help guys. I'll get this done over the weekend. I have no vise or press (I live in an apartment) but I do have a BFH and several punches.



As for the oil, I've no doubt that the transfer case could be leaking, but the biggest contributor of oil is some portion of the engine- I think it is the valve covers. It drips oil everywhere. It's kind of my signature that I've been there.